Teejop · The City of Four Lakes

Madison, Wisconsin

How a marshy isthmus between two lakes became a state capital, a university town and a city of 300,000.

300,153
residents, 2026
$1,500
for the isthmus, 1836
22
Nobel laureates tied to UW

Teejop Before 1836

  1. 12,000+ years ago

    The land of four lakes

    People live along the lakeshores for at least 12,000 years. The Ho-Chunk name for the place is Teejop — “four lakes.”

  2. 1,000+ years ago

    Mounds shaped like animals

    Builders raise burial mounds — conical, linear and effigy. More than 1,200 sites are recorded around Teejop; 34 survive on the UW campus.

  3. September 15, 1832

    A treaty under duress

    After the Black Hawk War, the Ho-Chunk cede Teejop to the United States. Many refuse to leave, or soon return.

A Paper City 1836–1847

  1. 1836

    $1,500 for an isthmus

    Speculator James Duane Doty and partners buy about 1,200 acres on the isthmus between Lakes Mendota and Monona, then sell lots in a city that exists only on paper.

  2. 1836

    A city of Founding Fathers

    Doty names the town for James Madison, who died June 28, 1836, and names 30 streets for Madison’s fellow Constitution signers: Gorham, Hamilton, Pinckney and more.

  3. November 28, 1836

    Capital by buffalo robe

    Meeting in cold Belmont, territorial legislators choose Madison. Doty hands out buffalo robes and cheap lots; about half the lawmakers own land there.

  4. April 1837

    The Pecks arrive

    Eben and Roseline Peck open a log inn for the workmen building the capitol. In April 1838 it hosts Madison’s first wedding, with Roseline on fiddle.

  5. July 4, 1837

    The first capitol

    The cornerstone is laid for a $60,000 statehouse; 36 workmen come from Milwaukee to build it.

Capital & Campus 1846–1899

  1. 1846 & 1856

    Village, then city

    Madison incorporates as a village of 626 people in 1846, and as a city of 6,863 in 1856. Jairus Fairchild is the first mayor.

  2. 1848–1849

    A state and a university

    Wisconsin becomes a state on May 29, 1848; the University of Wisconsin is chartered July 26. The first class meets Feb 5, 1849.

  3. 1852–53

    Watching the ice

    Records of Lake Mendota’s ice begin. Average ice cover falls from 114 days a winter in the 1800s to 82 since 2000.

  4. 1854

    The railroad arrives

    The Milwaukee & Mississippi Railroad reaches Madison, tying the capital to Lake Michigan.

  5. 1861–1865

    Camp Randall

    About 70,000 of Wisconsin’s 91,000 Civil War soldiers muster on the old fairgrounds. In 1862 it holds 1,200 Confederate prisoners; about 140 die.

  6. 1863

    Women on campus

    To keep enrollment up during the Civil War, UW lets women into its Normal Department, a teacher-training college. In fall 1863, 119 of its 229 students are women.

  7. 1866

    Open in all departments

    The legislature specifies that the university is to be open to women in all of its departments.

  8. April 17, 1897

    A playwright’s birthplace

    Thornton Wilder is born in Madison, where his father edits the Wisconsin State Journal. He becomes the only writer to win Pulitzers for both fiction and drama.

Dome & Prairie 1900–1945

  1. 1904

    The Wisconsin Idea

    UW president Charles Van Hise sets out the idea that the university’s work should reach every corner of the state — a creed it still cites.

  2. February 26–27, 1904

    The capitol burns

    A gas jet ignites a freshly varnished ceiling, and fire destroys much of the second capitol.

  3. 1906–1917

    A $7.2 million dome

    George B. Post & Sons build today’s capitol of white Vermont granite, 284 feet to the top of Daniel Chester French’s gilded Wisconsin.

  4. 1919

    Oscar Mayer comes to town

    Oscar G. Mayer buys a small packing plant on Madison’s outskirts, cheap and close to farmers. The company builds 50 homes for workers and pays to extend the streetcar; by 1920 it is the country’s fifth-largest packing plant.

  5. 1925

    Patents pay for science

    Harry Steenbock, who paid $300 to patent a way to add vitamin D to food, assigns it to the new Wisconsin Alumni Research Foundation, WARF.

  6. 1937

    Wright’s $5,500 house

    Frank Lloyd Wright builds the Jacobs House, often called his first Usonian home. In 2019 it joins a UNESCO World Heritage listing.

  7. 1938

    A dream by the lake

    Wright first proposes Monona Terrace, a civic center on Lake Monona. A county board rejects it by one vote; it waits 59 years.

  8. 1940–1946

    War empties, then floods, the campus

    Enrollment falls from 11,376 in 1940 to 5,904 in 1943, then hits a record 18,598 in 1946 as GI Bill veterans arrive. Quonset huts rise on Library Mall.

  9. 1941

    National champions

    The Badgers win the NCAA basketball title after taking the East Regional in their own Field House. It is still UW’s only men’s basketball championship.

  10. June 1942

    Wartime airfield

    The Army Air Forces open an airfield that trains radio operators and mechanics; it later becomes Truax Field.

Mad City 1946–1989

  1. September 6, 1948

    “The good life”

    Life puts Madison on its cover with a photo essay, “Good life in Madison,” and claims few people who live there “ever move away of their own free will.”

  2. 1949

    A land ethic

    UW professor Aldo Leopold’s A Sand County Almanac, published a year after his death, sets out a “land ethic” and becomes a founding text of American conservation.

  3. 1951

    Wright’s Meeting House

    Frank Lloyd Wright, a member, designs the First Unitarian Society’s Meeting House; members haul its limestone. A copper prow roof spans 64 feet without supports. It becomes a National Historic Landmark in 2004.

  4. 1954

    From rat poison to medicine

    Warfarin, found in Karl Paul Link’s UW biochemistry lab and named for WARF, is approved for human use. Sold to kill rats since 1948, it becomes a lifesaving blood thinner and in 1955 helps President Eisenhower recover from a heart attack.

  5. 1957

    Hot dog headquarters

    Madison becomes Oscar Mayer’s headquarters. At its 1970s peak, the east-side plant employs as many as 4,000 people.

  6. 1967

    The World Dairy Expo

    It debuts as the World Food Exposition and draws almost no one. Today it fills the Alliant Energy Center with about 60,000 visitors each fall.

  7. October 18, 1967

    Dow Day

    Students block Dow Chemical recruiters over napalm; police clear the Commerce Building with clubs and tear gas.

  8. December 10, 1967

    Otis Redding’s last flight

    The soul singer’s plane crashes into Lake Monona, killing seven. “(Sittin’ On) The Dock of the Bay” becomes the first posthumous No. 1.

  9. May 1969

    Mifflin Street

    Alder Paul Soglin is arrested at the Mifflin Street Block Party as police and students clash. Four years later he is mayor.

  10. August 24, 1970

    Sterling Hall

    A van bomb aimed at the Army Mathematics Research Center kills physicist Robert Fassnacht and injures three.

  11. 1972

    Five farmers on the Square

    Mayor Bill Dyke starts a market with five farmers. Today it calls itself the nation’s largest producers-only farmers’ market.

  12. 1973–2019

    Soglin, three times

    1973–79: elected at 27, he builds the State Street Mall and hands Fidel Castro a key to the city. 1989–97: he leads the push for Monona Terrace, then leaves for a losing run for Congress. 2011–19: back at 65 by under a point, he loses a fourth term. 22 years in all.

  13. 1978

    “77 square miles surrounded by reality”

    Republican Lee Dreyfus coins the jab while running for governor. Madison keeps it as a nickname.

  14. 1979

    Epic begins

    Judy Faulkner starts a medical-software company in Madison with $70,000. It becomes Epic Systems, the largest U.S. electronic health records vendor.

  15. 1979

    Liberty and flamingos

    UW’s Pail & Shovel Party builds a Statue of Liberty replica on Lake Mendota’s ice in February, then plants 1,008 pink flamingos on Bascom Hill on Sept 4.

  16. February 1980

    Five golds

    Madison-born speed skater Eric Heiden, Madison West class of 1976, wins all five men’s speed-skating golds at Lake Placid — a record of individual golds still unmatched.

  17. 1982

    The city’s biography

    David Mollenhoff’s Madison: A History of the Formative Years becomes the standard history. Stuart Levitan’s illustrated volumes follow: 1856–1931 in 2006, 1932–1979 in 2026.

  18. 1983

    Smart Studios

    Butch Vig and Steve Marker open a recording studio on East Washington Avenue. Nirvana records there in 1990, and the Smashing Pumpkins make Gish. It closes in 2010.

  19. 1985

    The boom crests

    Baby-boom growth lifts UW–Madison to 45,050 students — more than double 1960’s 18,811 — and pushes the campus southwest.

  20. 1987

    Stegner’s Madison

    Wallace Stegner’s semi-autobiographical novel Crossing to Safety opens in 1937 as two young instructors and their wives begin a lifelong friendship at the university in Madison.

Isthmus Capital 1990–2008

  1. April 1990

    Nothing above the dome

    State law caps buildings within a mile of the capitol at 1,032.8 feet above sea level — the base of the dome’s columns.

  2. 1992 & 2003

    The ’60s, on the page

    Tom Bates’s Rads reconstructs the 1970 Army Math Research Center bombing. David Maraniss’s They Marched into Sunlight sets Dow Day beside a Vietnam battle the day before; it is a 2004 Pulitzer finalist.

  3. August 15, 1995

    Garbage

    Vig and Marker’s own band, Garbage, fronted by Shirley Manson, releases its debut, recorded at Smart. It sells more than 4 million copies and earns three Grammy nominations.

  4. 1996

    No. 1 of 300

    Money names the Madison area the best place to live among the 300 largest U.S. metro areas, citing 1.5% unemployment. Its chief complaint: winter highs averaging about 20°F.

  5. July 18, 1997

    Wright’s terrace, at last

    After voters approve it in 1992, Monona Terrace opens at a cost of $67.1 million.

  6. 1998

    Stem cells

    James Thomson’s UW lab becomes the first to isolate human embryonic stem cells; WARF holds the patents.

  7. October 10, 1998

    Jump Around

    Fans first bounce to House of Pain at Camp Randall’s homecoming game. Paused in 2003 during stadium renovations, it returns after an engineer signs off.

  8. 1999 & 2000

    Back-to-back roses

    The Badgers beat UCLA, then Stanford, becoming the first Big Ten team to win consecutive Rose Bowls. Ron Dayne is the game’s MVP both times.

  9. 2002

    Ironman Wisconsin

    The first race sends triathletes on a 2.4-mile swim in Lake Monona, a 112-mile ride and a marathon around the capitol.

  10. September 19, 2004

    Overture Center

    César Pelli’s arts center opens on State Street. Jerry Frautschi and his wife, American Girl founder Pleasant Rowland, pay for it with gifts totaling $205 million.

  11. 2005

    Epic moves out

    Epic relocates to a sprawling campus in suburban Verona. By 2008 it has about 3,000 employees; 2007 revenue was about $500 million.

  12. April 25, 2006

    A state records credit, take one

    The Assembly passes a 50% income-tax credit for health providers’ electronic-records hardware and software, capped at $10 million a year. The state Senate lets it die on May 11. A 2007 rerun (AB 111/SB 45) dies in March 2008 without a floor vote.

  13. July 27, 2006

    Washington’s first try

    The House votes 270–148 for a health-IT bill (H.R. 4157’s text in S. 1418) that would write the federal health-IT coordinator’s office into law; Rep. Paul Ryan of Janesville is a co-sponsor. The Senate passed its version by unanimous consent in 2005. The two never merge.

  14. August 4, 2006

    Taylor Swift, free

    At 16, a little-known Taylor Swift plays a free 4:45 p.m. set at a radio station’s birthday show on Willow Island, Brat Fest’s home. About 60 people watch.

  15. 2007

    The credit returns via the budget

    Gov. Jim Doyle puts the same credit into the 2007–09 state budget (2007 Act 20). Before it starts, the 2009 budget pushes it to 2012, citing federal stimulus money. It is one of 15 credits that sunset after tax year 2013.

A City of 300,000 2009–2026

  1. 2009 & 2014

    Exact Sciences

    The cancer-test maker moves its headquarters to Madison from Massachusetts. In August 2014 the FDA approves its at-home test, Cologuard.

  2. 2009 & 2020

    Madison in fiction

    Lorrie Moore, long a UW writing teacher, sets A Gate at the Stairs in an unnamed town much like it. Brandon Taylor’s Real Life, drawn from his UW biochemistry years, makes the 2020 Booker shortlist. Ann Packer’s The Dive from Clausen’s Pier is set squarely in Madison.

  3. February 17, 2009

    A taxpayer-funded tailwind

    The stimulus’s HITECH Act pays hospitals and doctors to adopt certified electronic records — $34.7 billion by May 2016 — and penalizes holdouts from 2015. Epic’s share of U.S. acute-care beds jumps from 20.6% in 2012 to 46.5% in 2018. Founder Judy Faulkner sits on the federal panel advising on the money; critics call it a conflict of interest.

  4. February 13, 2009

    How Wisconsin voted

    On the stimulus carrying HITECH, the House votes 246–183. Wisconsin Democrats Tammy Baldwin (Madison), Steve Kagen, Ron Kind, Gwen Moore and Appropriations chair David Obey vote yes. Republicans Tom Petri, Paul Ryan and Jim Sensenbrenner vote no. In the Senate (60–38), Herb Kohl and Russ Feingold vote yes.

  5. September 1, 2009

    An official plastic bird

    The council votes 15–4 to make the plastic pink flamingo Madison’s official bird.

  6. February – March 2011

    Act 10

    Gov. Scott Walker’s bill limits most public workers — not police or firefighters — to bargaining over base wages and makes them pay more for pensions and health care. Up to 100,000 protesters fill the Square; Senate Democrats flee to Illinois. Walker signs it March 11.

  7. 2012–2026

    Act 10’s long tail

    Walker survives a 2012 recall; in 2014 the state Supreme Court rejects Madison Teachers Inc.’s challenge, 5–2. Public-sector union membership falls from 46.6% (2010) to 18.5% (2025). A Dane County judge strikes most of the law in 2024; an appeals court restores it July 29, 2026.

  8. October 2013

    The other Madison

    The Race to Equity report finds 25% of Black Dane County residents unemployed, against 4.8% of white residents. A 2023 follow-up finds deep gaps persist.

  9. April 4 & 6, 2015

    Ending a perfect season

    The Badgers beat undefeated Kentucky 71–64 in the Final Four, then lose the national final to Duke, 68–63.

  10. 2016

    Ho-Chunk Day

    The city sets the fourth Friday of November as Ho-Chunk Day, in perpetuity.

  11. 2017–2023

    The CrossFit Games

    The Games come to the Alliant Energy Center six times (not 2020), drawing about 50,000 people a year before moving to Fort Worth.

  12. June 2017

    Oscar Mayer leaves

    Production ends after nearly a century. Kraft Heinz’s 2015 decision cost about 1,000 jobs and moved the headquarters to Chicago.

  13. December 18, 2021

    Volleyball’s first title

    Wisconsin beats Nebraska in five sets for its first NCAA volleyball championship.

  14. September 12, 2023

    “A brick wall”

    Investor Bill Gurley makes Epic his case study of regulatory capture. Faulkner, he says, was “the only corporate representative” on Obama’s health-IT council, and the rules “put a brick wall there, so you couldn’t come up.” Her role in shaping the rules he offers as his assumption.

  15. Fall 2023

    50,000 students

    UW–Madison enrollment tops 50,000 for the first time. In fall 2025 it counts 51,822 students and 28,017 faculty and staff.

  16. Fiscal 2024

    Top five in research

    UW–Madison spends a record $1.93 billion on research, fifth among U.S. universities.

  17. September 22, 2024

    Rapid transit

    Metro’s first bus rapid transit line, Route A, starts running east–west across the city.

  18. November 5, 2024

    Voters close a gap

    In the city’s first property-tax referendum, about 57% approve $22 million to avoid cuts to police, buses and libraries.

  19. 2025

    Epic at 14,000–17,000

    Forbes puts Epic at about 14,000 employees and $5.7 billion in revenue; LinkedIn-style counts show about 17,000. Either way, up from about 3,000 in 2008. It runs records for 54.9% of U.S. acute-care hospital beds (2024).

  20. 2026

    300,000 strong

    A state estimate puts Madison at 300,153 people, up 9.3% since 2020. The city’s adopted 2026 operating budget is $452.7 million.

  21. March 23, 2026

    Exact is sold

    Abbott completes its $23 billion purchase of Exact Sciences, which employs about 7,200 people worldwide.

  22. March 22, 2026

    Nine for hockey

    UW women’s hockey beats Ohio State 3–2 for a second straight NCAA title, its ninth in all.

  23. October 6, 2026

    A Nobel from the ice

    UW physicist Francis Halzen wins the Nobel Prize in Physics for IceCube, the South Pole neutrino observatory UW leads, and its discovery of high-energy neutrinos from deep space. UW counts 22 laureates.

The city in maps and numbers

THE FOUR LAKESA capital on an isthmusLake MendotaLake MononaLake WaubesaLake KegonsaLake Wingra123456← Epic, Verona (≈9 mi SW)N5 km3 mi1Capitol. Buildings within a mile are capped below the base ofits dome’s columns.2UW–Madison, on Lake Mendota’s south shore.3Camp Randall: Civil War camp, then the football stadium.4Monona Terrace, Frank Lloyd Wright’s civic center on thelake.5Alliant Energy Center: World Dairy Expo; CrossFit Games,2017–2023.6Truax Field: Army airfield from 1942, now the airport.The Yahara River links all four lakes. Shorelines: City of Madison Open Data,“Lakes and Rivers.” Landmark coordinates: Wikipedia. Equirectangular projection.
THE LEDGERWhat Madison has costDollars of the day, not adjusted for inflation1836The isthmus, about 1,200 acres$1,5001837First capitol$60,0001917Today’s capitol$7.2M1937Wright’s Jacobs House≈$5,5001997Monona Terrace$67.1M2004Overture Center (gifts)$205M2024Levy increase approved by voters$22M2026City operating budget (adopted)$452.7M
WHO WORKS HEREBiggest employers, rankedCity of Madison, 2025 (no head counts given)1State of Wisconsin2University of Wisconsin3UW Health4Epic Systems (Verona)5U.S. government6SSM Health
UW–MADISONStudents on campus, 1940–2025020k40k60k194019601980200020255,904 (war)18,59845,05051,822Dots are reported counts; dashed lines join them and do not show the yearsbetween.
STATE GOVERNMENT JOBSMadison metro, 1990–2025020k40k60k1990200020102020202542,30049,00057,000Annual average, including UW–Madison. BLS via FRED, seriesSMU55315409092000001A.
IRS INCOME DATA · TAX YEAR 2022Dane County vs. WisconsinAverage adjusted gross income per returnDane County$103,538Wisconsin$82,184Dane County’s share of Wisconsin’s…Tax returns9.8%Income (AGI)12.3%Income tax14.1%IRS Statistics of Income, county data. Dane County includes Madison and itssuburbs.
EPIC SYSTEMSEmployees, 2000–2026HITECH Act, 2009$34.7B paid toproviders, 2011–1605k10k15k20k200020052010201520202026700≈3,00010,00014,000≈17,000?Dots: reported counts. Open dot: a LinkedIn-style count, unverified. HITECH paidthe hospitals and doctors who bought such systems.
BEST PLACE TO LIVE?The praise, and the fine print27“place to live” rankings tallied by Madison’s tourismbureau since 2021, five of them No. 1WHAT THE LISTS SAY1948Life: cover story, “Good life in Madison”1996Money: No. 1 of 300 metro areas2021–22Livability.com: No. 1 in the U.S., twice2024–25U.S. News: No. 6 for quality of life2026WalletHub: No. 2 state capital to live inWHAT THE LISTS LEAVE OUTWinterEven Money’s 1996 No. 1 came with average winterhighs of about 20°F.IncomeMedian income is $37,415 for Black households inDane County, $80,063 for white households.SchoolsIn Dane County, 6.4% of Black eighth-graders areproficient in math, against 46.9% of whitestudents.HousingJust 0.6% of owner homes sit vacant (1.1%nationally); rentals, 4.8%, below a healthy 5–7%.CostNearly half of Black households are cost-burdenedby housing, against 30% of white households.